HVAC Questions & Answers

The most common causes are a failed run capacitor stopping the compressor, a tripped breaker or disconnect at the outdoor unit, low refrigerant charge from a leak, a frozen evaporator coil, or a control failure. If the indoor fan runs but the outdoor unit is silent, the fault is usually electrical at the condenser.

A system can hold temperature in the morning and fall behind at peak load when capacity is marginal — a dirty condenser coil, restricted airflow, a slightly low charge, or leaking attic ducts. Load is highest when the attic is hottest, which is exactly when duct losses peak.

Short cycling comes from a thermostat placed in a hot or drafty spot, a dirty condenser raising head pressure until a safety trips, a refrigerant charge problem, or equipment oversized for the house.

Ice forms when the coil runs below freezing, which happens with low airflow (dirty filter, blocked returns, weak blower, dirty coil) or low refrigerant charge. Turn cooling off, run the fan to thaw, then have the cause found — running it iced can damage the compressor.

Screeching or grinding often points at a motor bearing, buzzing at a contactor or electrical fault, rattling at loose panels or debris in the condenser, and a hard clunk at startup can indicate compressor or mounting problems. Persistent electrical buzzing should be looked at promptly.

A musty smell usually means moisture sitting in the system: a dirty evaporator coil, a drain pan that is not draining, wet duct insulation, or a filter that has stayed in too long in humid conditions.

Continuous running on the hottest days can be normal for a correctly sized system. It becomes a problem when the house does not reach setpoint — then it points to charge, airflow, coil condition, duct leakage or insufficient capacity.

In Orlando, check monthly. One-inch filters commonly need replacement every 30–60 days during heavy cooling months; thicker media filters last longer. Pets, construction dust and heavy run time shorten the interval.

Twice a year suits most systems given the length of the cooling season, with annual service as the practical minimum. Condensate drains benefit from attention more often than that.

Biological growth in warm, humid condensate, plus dust drawn into the pan. Long horizontal runs, poor slope and dry or missing traps make it worse. A clog trips the float switch and shuts the system down — or overflows.

You can safely keep clearance around the unit, remove leaves and clippings, and rinse the fins gently with a garden hose from the inside out after cutting power at the disconnect. Do not use a pressure washer, and do not open electrical compartments.

The condenser rejects heat by pulling large volumes of air through its coil. Fences, shrubs and stacked items restrict that airflow, raise operating pressure and shorten equipment life. Keep roughly two feet clear on all sides and open space above.

It addresses the specific failure paths that dominate here — condensate clogs, airflow restriction, dirty coils, loose electrical connections and drifting charge. Catching those early prevents secondary damage; it cannot make a system last forever.

Yes, though demand is modest. Central Florida sees cold fronts and occasional near-freezing nights, and the heat side often sits unused for months — which is exactly why failures show up on the first cold night.

Heat pump supply air is cooler than furnace air by nature — often in the 90s °F — so it can feel cool while working correctly. It becomes a fault when the house will not reach setpoint or the reversing valve or defrost cycle is malfunctioning.

Electric resistance heat strips that supplement the heat pump when it cannot keep up, or replace it if the compressor fails. They use considerably more electricity, so a bill spike in winter often means aux heat is running more than it should.

Dust burning off heat strips or a heat exchanger after months idle usually clears within a cycle or two. A persistent burning or electrical smell should be treated as a reason to shut the system off and call.

Orlando and nearby communities including Downtown Orlando, Winter Park, College Park, Baldwin Park, Lake Nona, Dr. Phillips, Windermere, Winter Garden, Maitland, Altamonte Springs, Oviedo and Kissimmee.

Yes — light commercial work for offices, retail suites and professional spaces. Larger built-up systems and specialized process cooling fall outside our scope.

Note what the system is doing and when it started, clear access to the indoor and outdoor equipment, secure pets, and have the thermostat accessible. If water is present near electrical components, switch the system off.

If the coil is iced, water is present around electrical parts, or you smell burning, switch it off. A system that runs but underperforms can usually stay on until it is looked at.

Call 407-904-4622 or use the contact form. Describing the symptom, the equipment age and what you have already tried helps a great deal.